The best Masonry Drill Bit Sets: crowd reviews

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How to make a bong out of a Hennessy bottle:

1/5th bottles seem to work best. Get a bottle, wash it out, and set aside.

Go to a smoke shop and ask for a downstem and bowl piece. Ideally the down stem will be about 6” long. You can go longer/shorter depending on the angle your hole is made at.

Once you have your downstem, take a tape measure and measure the OSD of the glass. (Outside diameter. In my case the OSD was a hair over 1/2”, so I used a 5/8” drill bit)

Once you know the OSD of the downstem, you’ll need to go to the hardware store and get a drill bit that is at least 1mm larger than the OSD of your downstem. You need a special carbide (or diamond in some cases, ymmv depending on where you go to get the bit) drill bit that is intended for going through glass. They look a bit like this.

Drill your hole. ALWAYS WET DRILL GLASS. Always. Do it in your sink with the water running, and drill at about half-speed. It will take some time to get through the glass. The angle you hold your drill at will determine where and how the downstem sits in the bottle. About a 45 degree angle on the glass where I put my downstem works well.

Once the hole is made, rise the bottle out very well, and dry the outside. Put your downstem in the hole, and use some putty to make the air seal.

Pack a bowl, and enjoy ��

Every shop or serious mechanic should buy this set. It has saved me so much time and money dozens of times. Just go slow with ~~carbide~~ cobalt drill bits, they shatter easily.

I have used my Irwin screw extractor bits on stuff that small. Comes with instructions, pretty easy to use if you are at all a tool user and comfortable with a drill.

Here's the Amazon link as I'm lazy: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’ve used this one, but Irwin makes a few different sets. It doesn’t come with a tap handle so you’d need to pick that up as someone else said if you need to use the extractor (you don’t need it for reverse drill bits).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_glt_fabc_AZ2WQK7XXG1TNPP0GACB

usually the thing that requires the high strength is the tension held on threads caused by the "pinching" from the head end. Since your head end is... not there any more, the bolt tension is no longer being applied to the threads. Ergo, it would in theory be a lot easier to get the bolt tip out now.

That being said, if the bolt is as rusty as that subframe... was.... then you're still going to have an uphill battle.

You can try soaking it in PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil for a few days, and then using a Left-Handed Drill And Extractor Set kind of thing to get that nub out. (this is what I have and it's saved me a few times.)

If you can get the rest of the subframe out, and only have this one broken bolt, then it might still be salvageable. Were I you, I'd try to get the rest of the hardware out before giving up.

May also want to consider adding a small MAPP gas torch to your arsenal. You want to heat the "nut" end, not the "bolt" end, as much as is possible. Going forward, impact tools might be good for you as well -- the vibration you get from an impact is more likely to "rattle" the rust loose, as opposed to a high amount of force on a huge breaker bar or whatever. The huge force can be more likely to break the bolt.

You can drill through tile. Take your time and go really slow. Let the drill do the work and don't press to hard or you will crack the tile.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Piece-Glass-Storage-GT3000/dp/B001GNC8RS

SLOW......with minimal pressure....Did I mention that you need to go SLOW?

This is what I bought to make some holes in hard ceramic tiles: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GNC8RI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They worked very well. I tested them on a spare piece of tile first, and was surprised how easily they bore in. Good luck!

I had a similar issue with my crank, I used a "straight flute" drill bit and was able to remove it. Obviously I had to get a new crank. The bike shop put it on with red Loctite.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53645-Straight-Extractors/dp/B001MXRPXY/ref=asc_df_B001MXRPXY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309811990469&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10609851299451691902&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003995&hvtargid=pla-568579088813&psc=1

I've had decent luck with the "Speedout" style of extractors.

The "standard" type often haven't worked for me. Though my method has got better, you really need to drill pretty deep first and somethings the screw comes out when you're drilling (reverse drill bits).

I just used this set for the first time on Sunday. Got the bolt out easy peasy. i was so happy. Its a little pricy but paid itself off already.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was going to recommend Irwin ones, both the screw kind and the bigger ones with a hex-end on them. For rounded bolts, I'm a fan of the Gearwrench bolt-biter sockets, though. I haven't been too happy with the Irwin bolt extractors, their screw extractors are my go-to though.

Your link is kinda broken there though, bud:

Irwin screw extractor and drill bit set

Irwin hex head extractor

Those are actually some slightly more difficult materials to drill, but you can do it! Both tile and plexiglass are prone to cracking or shattering when you drill, so you'll want to make sure you're using the right bits. For tile, you'll likely want a carbide-tipped masonry bit like this one and they make specialty bits for plastic as well like this.

Take your time, don't press very hard, and let the drill do all the work for you. You may want to start with a smaller hole first, and then move up to a larger bit until you get to the size of your fastener, since taking out more material at once will make it more likely to chip or break.

As for fasteners, since you said you're attaching this to the wall, you'll want to know what the structure of the wall is made of. If the wall is tile, and you're in the US, it's likely drywall or plaster underneath. I don't know about construction in other areas. You'll know it's drywall if you get a white powder coming out of the hole once you're through the tile. Drywall and plaster aren't hugely strong, so you may want to look at wall anchors. There are lots of styles of wall anchors, and they're not very expensive. You'll want to estimate the weight of whatever you're hanging and then double or triple that number to choose your anchors and make sure it definitely won't fall.

Lastly, be careful drilling into a wall, since it's possible there's electrical wires or plumbing hidden behind the wall, and damaging those can be a real problem. Again, go slow, let the drill do the work, and wear gloves and eye protection. You can do this!

When you get that piece extracted take it to a hardware store and youll be able to find what you need.

Itll be something like m8x1.25 - maybe 20mm long.

Maybe even m6x1.00 -20mm long.

Easy out set with drill bit can be found here, dont have to get this exact one, just one similar. :

IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9P9HHFTJVMD1E9EMEFX0

These drill bits are designed to be turned in the left hand ( counter clock wise ) position. Sometimes the drill bit alone will bite the fastener enough to turn it out.

Be sure to use the proper size, and drill as straight and centered as possible.

Can start with smallest drill bit and slowly make the hole slightly larger if there is enough room.

Here a how to video: https://youtu.be/SMrDYJvY0Ts

If you wanted to go bigger than a hammer drill then depending on your task I can recommend the Ryobi ONE+ HD SDS P223 and Bosch SDS Plus Bit Set. I've been using these to drill holes for 1/4" Tapcons into 50 year old concrete and it's like drilling into nothing. Takes 2 seconds and zero effort. At least for the small holes a Tapcon needs. I haven't tried bigger tasks yet to see how it performs but if you were curious I could try to find something to test it on.

The only thing I don't like so far is that the depth gauge is part of the front handle and doesn't rotate independently so you can't for example have the handle on the bottom or left but keep the depth bar on the right side.

If I didn't get this my next choice was the Bosch Bulldog or Bulldog Max. Ultimately I chose the Ryobi for three reasons and don't regret it at all:

• While not as high quality as Bosch it's a little cheaper and for the types and quantity of projects I'll do it is "good enough" (and so far much more)
• Cordless is convenient. The times and places I plan to use this are the same ones where I'm least likely to have power. So far this has been a very true prediction for me.
• I decided that if I ran into a project that this couldn't handle that the extra power of the Bosch wouldn't really matter because I was going to hire somebody else to do the project anyways.

I do a lot of pot drilling. Bosch makes the best ceramic/glass/tile bits I’ve used: BOSCH GT2000 4-Piece Carbide Tipped Glass, Ceramic and Tile Drill Bit Set , silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GNC8RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3FB6T2GFHWZEH2A6X8TD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Glass can be drilled

It's spendy, but the Irwin Hanson 11135zr set is everything you will ever need. I use the hell out of my set and have a near 100% success rate*.

*the one failure was another tech didn't realize they were left hand bits, so snapped one off trying to force it to drill.

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Definitely an SDS drill would be the answer, but as you are stuck with the tools at hand, the only advice I can give you is to start the hole using the smallest diameter masonry bit you have there (You do realize the masonry bits are the silver coloured ones on the left?), drill a hole with that one the same depth as the plug, then gradually work up to the correct diameter drill bit.

It is not going to be easy, but should be possible. It may help if you could order online a more expensive set of masonry bits, like these. The ones you have look like a really cheap set and in my experience, I've found they often have the hardness of plastic! As soon as you hit something harder than plaster, they instantly become blunt. One set of bits that came with a cheap drill I once bought, I could bend in half with my fingers!

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No the one I got is like this and goes really small but cost half the price. https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Hanson-Spiral-Extractor-11119/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1606886637&sr=8-5

I only have a rotary hammer I bought during remodeling, so used it on the "just drilling" setting with a 6 mm bore/bit for concrete.

And with a regular drill, bits for tiles and glass should be your tool of choice. Like these.

To prevent overheating of the jar and the drill I poured some water in the jar, like 1/3 or its full volume.

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P.S. English isn't my first language and I never discussed such themes in english before, so I explained the best I could :)

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Get a screw extractor set from Amazon. Just make sure to get one that comes with left hand drill bits. You can often get the screw out just with the left hand bits before even needing to use the extractor.

This is a good kit if you want a variety of sizes for anything like this in the future: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/

COMOWARE Tile Glass Masonry Drill Bit Set - Industrial Cemented Carbide Tip YG6X, Hex Shank for Glass, Soft Ceramic Tile, Mirror, Plastic, 6Pcs | 1/8'', 3/16'', 1/4'', 5/16'', 3/8'', 1/2'' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084SW77S7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jKuvFbHXGEDKX

Or

Diamond Drill Bit Glass drill bit for Tile Marble Granite Fiberglass Ceramic Tool Drill Bit Set 5 Pack | 5/32” – ½” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WC22HTP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JKuvFb6SW8E6C

If you currently have glass or ceramic vessels you’d like to put holes in. I prefer the second type of bits. If you have running water near by it’s a good idea to keep your glass/ceramic and bit wet. If not a bucket of water will do.

Check out some screw extractor kits. I’ve used them successfully before.

IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FzdtFbYA5M1JE

You are better off with an extra tor set that has left hand drill bits. They cut turning counterclockwise and sometimes that is enough to get the bolt out.

That set appears to have standard bits.

Try this one.

IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cAxmFbZ1X4CRK

I let those screws sit with multiple applications of kroil over 24 hours, and after all that the screw heads actually snapped (not stripped) during my removal attempt. I purchased a screw extractor set off amazon and had them out in maybe 5 minutes.

This is the extractor set used: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Hanson-Spiral-Extractor-11119/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=screw+extractor+tool&qid=1596676470&sprefix=screw+&sr=8-17

The replacement screws and retainer are parts 28 and 29 on this page: https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/suzuki/2006/drz400sm/transmission

Any oem parts pages are fine if you can find one with cheap shipping, just look in the transmission section

The one I like is from Bosch, which keeps going out of stock on amazon since it seems everyone is stuck at home and going DIY crazy these days.. It's this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000TZZVA/

You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes too.

I mostly use the "clean" cut blades with a higher tooth count. It goes a bit slower but I don't mind as the cuts turn out very smooth looking. If I had a sander I might use the other wood blades more often and clean up any roughness afterwards.

One more fun fact: with a jigsaw you can buy a massage attachment set for about $20 on amazon, and use it on your spouse. A few uses of that and who knows, you might get approval to buy a lot more tools. :)