What is the crowd's opinion of VCE Single Brush Wall Plate Cable Pass Through Insert for Wires, Single Gang Cable Access Strap, Wall Socket for HDTV, Home Theater Systems - White (2-Pack)?

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I used something like this. It's nice because I don't have to potentially lose signal quality or have another point of failure and can also run multiple wires through if I needed (sound system, ethernet, etc..)

You will need to build in extra reinforcement. I would put in extra studs and bracing either side and anchor the hammock to that. Lots of studs are just knocked in with a couple of nails.

I would put the hooks directly into the reinforced studs and instead of going through the drywall I'd use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL

Not trying to say that getting a laptop is the wrong choice for you at all, but there are ways to get creative with a desktop that you may not have considered... I am currently using my old gaming desktop (8+ years old now) as a media center PC in the living room, and I'm able to stream SteamLink just fine. I haven't played around with VR through steam link (I guess I just assumed it wouldn't work) but it's worth a shot.

If you prefer a hard-connection, I have considered running a USB and DisplayPort extension cable through a hole in my office floor, through the basement, and up through into a brush wall plate so that I can connect USB and DisplayPort directly to my living room TV and controller, while using my PC a few rooms away without lag. If you do this, just make sure you get the right displayport cable for the throughput that the Index requires (I forget what it is off-hand and I'm late for lunch so I'm not going to look it up right now lol).

It depends on how visible the area is, but there is no hard rule on how to do it. Mine is in a closet out of sight so it's literally just a hole in the ceiling with the cables coming down. If it's in a visible area you might get a piece of PVC pipe to put in the wall/ceiling to give it a more finished look and then bundle the cables up neatly with velcro (or zip ties, but I prefer velcro since it's removable and reusable easily if you need to redo it or add a cable). If it's just a few cables, you can use a brush plate instead

You can

Get a couple brush plates instead, much lower profile. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=2KVYMUIAPXAUX&keywords=brush+plate&qid=1658525462&sprefix=brush+plate%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-3

I'd be embarrassed to put a video out with the way you just half-assed the HDMI and cable holes. You really should have put in a low voltage single gang bracket with some brush covers https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/ $10-$15 bucks for a nice professional look, not some janky holes in the drywall.

https://www.amazon.ca/Listed-VCE-Single-Brush-2-Pack/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=asc_df_B071X8RLJL/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341773967881&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13655702298301224448&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...

I would have just gone through the wall. I did something similar with my cable modem / router. Cut out an outlet-sized hole on both sides of the wall, bought fillers (like these), and then ran network cables through the opening.

There are wall outlets meant for passing wires through walls, and changing things up.

They have 'brushes' in the openings to prevent things from falling in them. They're called Brush Plates.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X8RLJL/

Install one above the granite and one below.

This let's you pass wires through the wall cavity over and over, very easily.

This is the last thing OP should be doing. These things will severely limit the available bandwidth (which I'm going to assume OP doesn't want for an office). The rooms are literally right next to each other. What /u/Fickle-Cricket suggested is what I'd be doing, except I'd cheap out and use one of these on either side of the wall, but that's primarily because I'm lazy (and I have the proper punchdown tool!)...

Ya I was thinking instead of just doing a proper plate on the wall just to have the cable come thru, with something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/Listed-VCE-Single-Brush-2-Pack/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=sr\_1\_13?dchild=1&keywords=wall+plate&qid=1634868179&sr=8-13

How about this

VCE Single Brush Wall Plate Cable Pass Through Insert for Wires, Single Gang Cable Access Strap, Wall Socket for HDTV, Home Theater Systems - White (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TSQSGD3RZCNZBS43VZ9V

For the wiring going to the rack, use punch down patchpanels. It's cheaper than keystone jacks and less work than putting ends on every cable. If all the wiring is coming from above, put it right at the top of the rack so the wires are out of the way. You say you have some going through the ceiling and some through a crawlspace below - if possible I'd run them all into the ceiling, then back down inside the wall just so are all out of the way.

If you want the wires to look extra pretty coming out of the rack, google "cable comb" - its a plastic thing you use to keep all the cables in line. If you have a friend with a 3d printer there are 3d printable ones available.

Don't put the patch panel inside the wall. It will be a nightmare if you (or the next guy) has to repair or add any cables.

Running a line from where ever the ONT is installed back to the garage is fine. Lots of people don't get much choice on where the service entrance is, so it's pretty common to do that.

Where the wiring goes into the wall to go up to through the ceiling or down through the crawlspace, you can use a low voltage box bracket and face plates like these: https://www.amazon.ca/Listed-VCE-Single-Brush-2-Pack/dp/B071X8RLJL to make it look pretty. Those ones require that you feed all the wires through them before installation, but there are similar ones that are split so you can add them after the wires are in if needed.

This setup looks great, if you would like to manage those cables a bit more and that isn't mounted on an exterior or firewall, then you can buy something like this and put one right behind the MOBO and one about a foot above the baseboard (I align mine with the height my outlets are at). This would hide those cables and, as long as they aren't moved a lot, which I'm assuming they aren't as the are velcro'd together, then there's not much downside at all.

I'm using a single gang wall plate with little fingers/fibers that allow the cables to pass through completely.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_VYI3FbJ88AW7D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can get nicer ones from a proper building store, but those would do the trick. Have one by your entertainment centre, one behind your TV, and one for your sound bar. Run whatever cables you think you might need between them. Thats what I did at least, its versatile enough that I can use whatever I want wherever I want.

Run conduit with pull strings, you’ll want to upgrade in the future. Also, don’t use wall plates for hdmi, almost all wall plates won’t pass through the highest bandwidth for 4K 120 like on hdmi 2.1 cables for example. Use a brush plate instead and connect the cable directly from the avr or source to your display.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_wlMUFbAHXHTEW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Brush through wall plates. https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL

If you're ok with a different look, then these are typically used for multimedia type setups where the original cable pulls through the wall

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X8RLJL/

Here in Pennsylvania we call them red heads too, but these are what we refer to when we say cat asses

Yeah I asked them which would cost 75$ to make them do the work compared to like 30$ before shipping if I buy all 3 cables and the wall plate and everything. And that would be armored cable.

I just dont know if my ISP would just drill a hole in the wall. (probably).

And on fs.com the shipping cost for a order of 30$ would be 60$ unless I make a order over 105$ which I dont really need.

Im honnestly considering going with some wall plates with brush at this point and just get a full 20m optic cable.

Fingers crossed. What should I be using, just one of those brush plate cable pass throughs like this?

You can use cable access wall plates, examples:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X8RLJL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079MPN91L/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJ6TPCM

Depending on which one you get, you can just cut a normal hole for a outlet, place in a low voltage gang, then pop the cover on. You might be able to find something suitable at your local hardware store as well.

As for not pulling on the panel, if you have enough slack you can store it in the wall, and the cables will be static so it shouldn't pull on the patch panel. You could go farther and do some service loops/secure it to the wall/rack.

>Do I need to worry about the female to female hdmi adapter?

yes. Skip the wall plate all together, get one of those brush plates

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>Any recommendations for the hdmi cabling I should get?

So there's certified premium HDMI cables those will get you 18GBPS that is for 4k HDR video.

Then there's HDMI 2.1 Ultra high speed HDMI, right now very little cables are yet certified, however Cable Matters does have 48GBPS cables, they've been tested, they guarantee they'll work, and have said numerous times they'll get certified soon. 3 pack of 10' 48GBPS cables for $23, what's not to like.

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But seeing you have 3' + 25' + 3' = 31' of cable, you may want to look at a Fiber Optic HDMI cable like Monoprice warning they're NOT cheap for long runs.

Is there attic above? An easy way might be to simply add in a receptacle in the attic (easy)

Then add an old work ring, and one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL

Then just fish a long lightning cable own - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Lightning-Certified-Charger/dp/B013JNUHR0

I can't think of a neater way to be honest

Brush plates

Ok, so lot of red flags here. Your setup probably isn't going to work as it is.

First, your wallplate is ancient, it was released in Jan '15 (and designed probably in 2014). It is barely old enough to support anything past HDMI 1.4 (10Gbps)... It's not impossible at that age, but given that it doesn't bother to say anything about what speeds it supports, it's simply completely unlikely that it supports anything past 10Gbps. Franlky, given the write-up on that product page, you'll be lucky if it even supports 10Gb in the first place.

Next, is the concern of what connects the wall plates? You could buy a plate from the future, but the cable that is connecting the wallplates is still from whenever you installed it.

Then that Amazon cable. I don't trust it, it claims 18Gbps, but the listing does not call it "HDMI High Speed Premium" as it should. It also does not claim to be certified anywhere on the page (that orange sticker with the QR code I mentioned). It's also a super cheap cable, and those tend not to work as they get longer, but that's a gamble and I can't say for sure without it in front of me.

There is also a slight, but present, possibility that age (and quality level) of components is stripping the HDCP signal. This is a sort of electronic handshake that allows certain generations of equipment to work together to their best capability. If it is not sending/receiving, your stuff can get wonky.

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> Straight into the TV hdmi port is also not working

The Chromecast into the TV?

I am not picking on you, just trying help when I say this: This post, and most of your other requests are not as descriptive as they could be. I give you credit for posting the amazon links, thank you. But the TV model and AVR model number I only found by reading every comment in this thread. It is good practice to list what equipment you are using when asking for help with troubleshooting. Often, it's also important to list in what manner they are connected.

Assisting, it's good to know what devices are being plugged in where, so that I can build a cable map in my head (or diagram it on paper if it's crazy). It also, honestly, would have been helpful to know you were going through the wall plate -- that changed everything.

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The good news is: The TV and the AVR are both fully UHD/HDR/WCG compliant! So unless something is broken, you should be able to get this worked out. For what it's worth, that's a really good value AVR, and the TV is also good for the money. Not super-duper highend, but you didn't buy junk. They should do what we need and perform well.

This is the support page for your AVR: https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-v385_u/downloads.html#product-tabs

• First step: Update the AVR Firmware. Do it from the unit or download it on the support page. reference the manual there if you need to.

• Next, check the menu on your AVR, go to the HDMI settings and make sure HDCP is set to "Auto". Reference that manual if you need to.

TV Manual: https://www.hisense-canada.com/en/support/models/75H78G_2020-75-4k-ultra-hd-android-tv

• Update the TV's firmware. Should be in the "About" section of your menu. Use the manual if you need to.

• In your Picture menu, make sure the "HDMI 2.0 Format" setting is set to "Enhanced." You might want to go to HDMI 1, 2, and 3 and check the setting to to make sure the setting is changed on each input channel (some TVs share settings some have separate settings for each Input). Use the manual if you need it.

Those steps will get you a functional canvas. You really need to not use those wallplate passthroughs any more. It, and the wiring linking them are well out of date for the A/V equipment you have. You are possibly wasting money having it run through that (because your equipment cannot perform to its potential through a 10GBps line). Upgrade the plates, upgrade to in-wall rated "HDMI High Speed Premium" certified cabling inside the wall; personally, you should look through in-wall conduit or a Bullnose plate and just run a straight cable through, you won't have to reinstall a plate every time you update something. Bare minimum though, upgrade the external cabling in the same way I said, and send back that Amazon cable.

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I want you to know I did my best to find you a cable on amazon.ca (I'm in the US), and I couldn't find any cables that were labled as "HDMI High Speed Premium" that were ALSO legitimately certifed. I used the QR authenticator, as well as HDMI.org's partner list. To the best of my knowledge, HDMI (the entity) still operates the certification process in Canada. There is a 1% chance that they don't, and I'm giving bad advice. But 99%, they are still showing certified cables on amazon.ca, and they happen to all be fake, illegitimate, example-only, or otherwise faulty codes. Crosschecking those brands doesn't even show them as partners on HDMI.org. There is one possible exception, read on.

There's an influx of misleading junk on amazon to begin with, and today's finicky equipment is more sensitive to junk. Now, honestly, just because it does not have the label, or the QR code, it does not mean that it won't work, but do you really want to keep going through returns? I would call up your Best Buy or whatever your most trusted electronics store is (and I don't mean a grocery store that sells TVs), and speak to a home theater representative. Tell them in simple terms, "I need your second-least expensive 18Gbps HDMI cable, preferably one with the orange certification stamp on the package. I am testing some equipment and it's imperative that I have the correct cabling." Don't let them talk you into the $200 cables (those have their purpose, but not here), and don't buy the $4 ones -- those will fall apart and get stuck in your TV. I know Best Buy well, and I also know Best Buy Canada is different -- but if they have Rocketfish cables, those are certified and of acceptable quality for your task. Be prepared for ~$35-40 instead of the $12 you got from Amazon. Whatever it is, ask for the sku/model so you can order it on their website... I don't know what the COVID situation there is but if nothing else, curbside or delivery is much faster :D

The exception I mentioned above, if you cannot find a reliable, trustworthy retailer locally, look to Monoprice's online products. Monoprice, in the US is a trusted buget brand. They will not sell you treasure that will last forever, but they will sell you something inexpensive that does the job for now. They don't have a direct .ca site, but my research shows me that distribute through Primecables.ca. I would try to buy locally, like I said, but I will provide a link to the "if you have to" cable below. Do not buy it from amazon, their stock gets mixed up and the $1-2 savings is not worth the risk if you're already having problems with the system.

https://www.primecables.ca/p-356007-cab-15427-all-certified-premium-high-speed-hdmi-cable-hdr-6-length-monoprice#sku363693

FWiW I also looked for a wall plate to recommend to you there, and the only one they had that was 2.0+ was $230CAD... so here is a brush plate instead, just buy a longer cable to get from ARC to ARC:

https://www.amazon.ca/Listed-VCE-Single-Brush-2-Pack/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=pd_sbs_23_2/144-7800632-3953263?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071X8RLJL&pd_rd_r=cbefa297-02e6-45fb-aee3-5e5d99d28cbd&pd_rd_w=rfW11&pd_rd_wg=kAuRg&pf_rd_p=e2c8fd77...

Their 18Gbps selection so you can get a longer cable:

https://www.primecables.ca/en/c-16963-hdmi-20-cables-4k-licensed?property_ids%5B%5D=23&view=grid

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The only thing left to address are the most simple questions of all if those steps above don't work:

• Are you a Stadia Pro Member? Only Pro members are capable of accessing 4k.

• This is in fact a Chromecast Ultra? Only the Ultras Support 4k.

Regardless of your answers to the last two questions, you should still do the firmware/settings that I listed above.

Since you already said you tried the Chromecast If none of it works, then try it on a different 4k/HDR TV and see if it works there. It's possible the chromecast is faulty for all I know after all the other steps. You may need a priest instead of a technician.

Things do exist, like this brushed plate, where wires (for sensors or speakers) can come though, but it still looks clean. Many mount them high for in wall speaker installation.

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https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL

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There are also ones with generic holes you can use too: https://www.amazon.com/VCE-Single-Connector-Subwoofer-Port-White/dp/B074T6Q11V/