I do similar. I use 'traditional' wiring, to a big junction box. Every switch, and every circuit, comes back to it. Then I can connect traditionally in the first instance, to get everything working. I can then upgrade to Shelly, or whatever other system is needed, whenever required.
I can also massively recommend the Phoenix PTFIX blocks for this. Makes the wiring so fast, and very neat. They do a huge range. Here's an example: https://uk.farnell.com/phoenix-contact/ptfix-6-18x2-5-ns35-gy/tb-power-distribution-19p-12awg/dp/3242550
Wago: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGYXVXR
it's just somethign that makes solid connections. This one connects the 3 wires you insert in it together. You can use other methods such as soldering etc. But I've learned over the years to trust a wago much more than other methods.
Hi All
I've just found this thread as part of my research to do the same: automate the control of my 3KW immersion in line with my PV/battery system.
Any thoughts if the Shelly 1 Pro Din mounted switch would be suitable?
It's not clear to me if this is a proper contactor relay, although it is in the same DIN rail format that many come in.
I was going to arrange an alteration to sort out a Shelly 1 and one of these 25A contactors (or similar) in a small separate consumer box with an MCB, but was wodnering if the Shelly 1 Pro could do both or maybe it's not heavy duty enough...
indeed, there is an app for MQTT thingy on android : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.routix.mqttdash&gl=US
But you will need a broker to connect to, though...
There's also ShellyPilot. The interface looks a bit dated, but for quick control of devices it's fine. If you just want to control some Shellies until your home automation hub is set up, you could also simply use their built-in web interface with any browser.
I checked with an older EE I know, a guy who really knows his stuff and he agrees, if voltage difference is just 3.3 or whatever it is, and the current is like nothing, you can use almost anything. However, just to be safe, the wire should be rated above 300V. But like any 24awg wire I can find on Amazon is rated to 600V. Something like this would work fine: https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Electrical-electronics-stranded-Flexible/dp/B07G7R9JQH/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=24awg&qid=1638659277&sr=8-9&th=1. And that's only to be safe. For the relay, it just needs to be rated to whatever the potential is at the contactor, so 3.3v, or whatever it is plus some margin. You could probably even use a SSR (solid state relay). It depends on what your circuit is going to look like; if you're going to put it on a little perfboard prototype, or like dead-bug the whole thing, idk.
I’m late to this party, but I have problems with shallow pattress boxes. These exist as an option - Schneider Electric Lisse Screwless Deco - Single Socket Surround, Spacer, GGBLSPC1BS, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PBH7X9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_04B84C320Q4CTXX0TDKZ